By Liza Ilarde
Published: April 12, 2013
The mighty Cagayan River flows between rice fields as far as the eye can see
If you are planning a road trip this summer, consider heading northeast towards Isabela. Before I visited the Philippines' second largest province (Palawan is the largest), I had no idea what Isabela was all about, other than that it's bound by the Pacific Ocean on the right and that the Sierra Madre mountains cross it. Boy, was I in for a pleasant surprise.
First, some quick facts about Isabela. The "Queen Province of the Philippines" was founded in May 1856 and was named after Queen Isabela II of Spain. Being the second largest province in terms of land area (it occupies over a million hectares or 3.5% of Philippine territory), it is practically a theme park for nature lovers and thrill seekers. Since it occupies the northern part of the country's longest mountain range, it is also home to the most diverse flora and fauna and is one of Asia's remaining virgin forests. That is why there is no way to travel by land from the capital city of Ilagan, located in the valley at the foot of the Sierra Madre, to the 113-kilometer-long coastline of fine, white sand. There is no highway that cuts across this protected area. If you want to visit any one of Isabela's four coastal towns, you have to fly via six-seater plane or helicopter, or take a boat from Aurora province, which is located south.
The river also runs through it—the Cagayan River, that is, the country's longest river. It snakes through the cities and towns, crossing roads and highways. Driving through Isabela, you will see patches of the greenest rice fields as far as the eye can see—no wonder, it is the country's biggest rice surplus producer. Its top industry is agriculture and it is recognized as the number-one corn and monggo producer in the country. And the fact that it is one of the most-often hit by typhoons? It has only made the Isabeliños one of the most resilient people, managing to put their beloved province among the 10th richest in the Philippines.
I was lucky enough to visit Isabela during their annual four-day Bambanti Festival, which used to coincide with their founding anniversary in May, but was moved to January starting this year. Bambanti is the local term for scarecrow, a human-sized and -shaped figure used to scare birds away from rice fields. But, as Governor Bojie Dy told us during our visit, it was also used as a symbol "to keep away bad spirits, negative omens, and destructive typhoons, and to safeguard the land."
The fact that no typhoon hit them in 2012 made Isabeliños especially thankful, making the Bambanti Festival a true celebration. For this city girl, it was like participating in one giant fiesta for four days. During the day, the capitol grounds had giant bambanti installations, impromptu showdowns, and booths from the 34 municipalities displaying their wares. In the evening, the Isabela Sports Complex was the setting for a street-dancing competition, a singing competition, and concerts by big celebrities like Sarah Geronimo, Christian Bautista, Vina Morales, and Jed Madela.
For such a huge province, four days might not be enough to see everything Isabela has to offer. But following are the musts when you head there in May to attend their founding anniversary.
WHAT TO SEE
Ilagan Sanctuary is a portion of the protected area that's been turned into a tourist destination. There you'll find the Santa Victoria Caves, once used as a hiding place by Filipino guerillas during the Japanese Occupation, Abuan River, and Pinzal Falls. Other activities include ziplining, horeseback riding, boating, and picnicking.
Church of San Mattias in Tamauini has a very distinct brick facade and interiors. Its unique cylindrical bell tower is the only one of its kind in the Philippines. Declared a National Historical Landmark in 1989, it is also in UNESCO's World Heritage Tentative List.
Magat Dam is the biggest dam in Southeast Asia, and supplies the energy needs of Central Luzon and Metro Manila, and is a source of irrigation for 95,000 hectares of farmland. When water flowing from the Cordillera mountains fills the dam, water is released into the Magat River, the largest tributary of the Cagayan River.
Camp Vizcarra in Ramon opened in the 80s to serve originally as a campsite for the Boy Scouts. It is currently being developed into a full-fledged camp that will also include whitewater rafting, zipline, biking and hiking trails, and picnic grounds. They plan to complete it by 2014.
WHAT TO EAT
Corn. Most of the corn grown in Isabela are meant for raw materials used in producing chips, beer, and animal feeds. But be sure to look for the pale yellow corn meant to be eaten.
Pancit Cabagan looks just like any other pancit, but the proof is in the pudding. Created by a Chinese immigrant in the town of Cabagan, they say the secret is in the noodles. Or the sauce. Or the ingredients. You'll have to try it to see what I mean.
Moriecos is their version of the suman but with a twist—every bite reveals a sweet latik filling. Don't hesitate to bring some home for pasalubong because it keeps in the fridge for up to two weeks.
Isabela longganisa is a longganisa like no other you've tasted—it's all in the amount of garlic. Eat with lots of rice!
WHERE TO STAY
The Hotel Sophia is a new boutique hotel that just opened in January. Owned by a young couple, it is located just minutes away from Cauayan Airport. Find them on facebook.com or email thehotelsophia@yahoo.com
For more information, go to isabela.ph
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